Friday, November 18, 2011

Rustic Spanish Chicken Thighs, Fresh Spinach, and Cauliflower Puree

I bought some Murray's brand free range, organic chicken thighs the other day, and was reminiscing about the "finca" that was near the house we rented while living in the Andalucian region of Spain when I was young.
A finca is a small farm, and in 1960's Spain, they were self-sustaining.  The farmers raised (or gathered) all their own food, so the barnyard contained small livestock such as rabbits, goats, and chickens for the proteins which they used in their meals.
I was an adventurous child, often wandering for up to a mile into the woods, which is how I thought I found this "hidden" place that was all my own.  Mind you, in my universe (I was six years old) I was the ultimate adventurer, exploring far and wide through the woods and discovered this random little farm with its friendly (to me) guard dogs, and incredibly warm and welcoming owners completely on my own.
It was my discovery, these were my people.  
The reality was that my mother had actually scoped out the area using the (completely mundane, in my opinion) dirt road that led from the highway past our house to the farm, and had met the neighbors, relating to them my precociousness in advance of my arrival. Hmph. I didn't know they had been warned.  At least the woods were mine.
Lucky for me, they loved kids.  All Spaniards love kids.  And so, they invited me into their home and taught me the ways of the farm.
We fed the barnyard animals, we collected the eggs, we weeded the garden and picked the vegetables that we would use for lunch and to sell in town, and we hunted wild mushrooms, asparagus and snails in the woods beyond the farm walls.  This is one of my very favorite memories of Spain; I was part of this family, sharing in the work and the life of this little farm.  No experience was held back because of my age or gender.
I was allowed to participate in the production process of the farm, from maintaining the garden and picking the vegetables, hunting and gathering wild mushrooms, asparagus, and snails (yes, the French claim the corner-market on Escargot, but the Spanish Snails are 'way better than any of the fru-fru French snail dishes I have tried).  I helped feeding, raising, and butchering the animals that we ate.  I learned to chop off a chicken's head rather than wringing its neck, so that it doesn't suffer as much, dip it in boiling water so the pin feathers pluck out easier.
I learned to humanely kill the rabbits and goats, and how to clean, skin and butcher them, preserving and using the pelts of each, and making sure that every edible part of the animal was utilized, including organs and bones.  I learned that every part of the animal is really tasty if it is prepared and cooked properly.  Honestly, I can't remember anything that they served me that I didn't like!
Most dishes are served very simply, without over cooking, over spicing (although smart spicing is incredibly important!), heavy sauces, etc.
And this brings me back to this century, and the chicken thighs, fresh spinach, cremini mushrooms, and cauliflower which were on my counter awaiting preparation.
I kind of miss the fact that I didn't have to butcher the chicken, pick the spinach and cauliflower, and hunt the mushrooms myself, but oh well.....here are the recipes that I developed to honor my time in Spain:

For the cauliflower puree:

  • one large head of cauliflower, cut into large pieces
  • 7-9 whole Cremini Mushrooms, (also known as Baby 'Bellas), cut into quarters
  • drizzle of Goya brand Extra Virgin Olive Oil
  • 1 head of Garlic, cut in half lengthwise
  • sprinkle of sea salt, cracked black pepper to taste
  • heavy cream
  • 1 tbsp. unsalted Butter (I love Kerrygold brand-it is Irish, not Spanish, but my people made their own butter, and there is no brand that I know of sold here in the states from Spain)
  • 1 teaspoon of fresh Rosemary, finely chopped and divided in half
Pre-heat the oven to 400*F
Spread the cauliflower, mushrooms, 1/2 tsp. of the Rosemary and Garlic (cut side up) on a cookie sheet
Drizzle with olive oil
Roast in the oven for about 30 minutes, stirring about every 10 minutes to roast evenly
Sprinkle a bit of salt and pepper on about halfway through cooking time
                         (I start the chicken when the veggies are halfway done roasting, so everything finishes at the same time)
When done, remove from oven, transfer cauliflower to a food processor and pulse on the Puree setting
Chop the Mushrooms into smaller pieces (how small is up to your taste)
Add the cream, a bit at a time, while pureeing, to get a whipped potato consistency
Add the butter and the rest of the Rosemary
Add more salt and pepper if necessary (taste first!)
Fold in the Mushrooms and plate this first for the best presentation

For the chicken (cook this before the spinach so you can use the drippings to flavor the spinach):


  • 4 chicken thighs, skin on and bone in (makes for more juicy and flavorful chicken)
  • mix up a dry rub of 1 tsp. ground cumin, 1 tsp. smoked paprika (Goya makes a smoked paprika you can find in most Publix Supermarkets), 1 tsp. sea salt, 1/2 tsp. cracked black pepper, and finely chopped rosemary and thyme
  • 1/4 cup of extra virgin olive oil (I use spanish Goya brand, because it is the most fragrant/flavorful)


Heat the oil in a large (cast iron if you have it, since the Spanish farmers cook most often in cast iron) on medium-high
Rub a small amount of oil on the chicken (like you are putting Coppertone suntan oil on yourself; not too much)
Rub the chicken all over with the dry rub and let sit for about 5-10 minutes
Add the chicken, skin-side down, to the pre-heated oil (be careful of splatter)
Cook chicken until skin is dark golden brown, turn over and cook the other side until it is the same color and the internal temperature is about 165*F.  If the skin browns too quickly, transfer it to a baking dish, and finish the cooking in the oven with the veggies at 400*F until the temperature is right.  There may be a bit of pink at the bone, but if the chicken is 165*, is free-range organic (or from your local sustainable farmer), you don't have to worry. Just make sure the juice is clear.
Allow the chicken to rest while you finish and plate the Caulifower and Spinach.

For the Spinach:


  • Approximately 10 ounces of fresh spinach leaves
  • 1 tsp. of the leftover oil and drippings from the sautee pan (pour off the excess)
  • salt, garlic, and pepper to taste
  • 1 pat of unsalted Kerrygold Butter
  • 1/4 fresh lemon, juice and zest
In the still-hot skillet from the chicken, pour off all the oil except for approximately one tablespoon, making sure to save all the little flavorful bits in the bottom of the pan.
Add the garlic if the pan isn't too hot (careful not to burn it), and add the spinach leaves.
On medium-high, cook the spinach leaves, stirring/turning constantly until they are completely wilted and dark green
Add a small amount of salt and pepper (there will be some residual seasoning left from the chicken)
Add the butter and stir in
Add the lemon juice and zest, give a quick stir, and plate over the Cauliflower Puree for the best presentation, and add the chicken on top
Serve with Crusty Sourdough Bread (alas, the authentic Spanish bread called Pan--pronounced, "pahn"--doesn't exist here in the USA)

Enjoy, and think of Spain!